Alpamayo (in Quechua means Allpa Mayu) is a mountain that is located in the Andes mountain range located in the northern part of the western branch of the Cordillera Blanca, within the Huascarán National Park in Peru. It reaches an altitude of 5,947 m. It was proclaimed by the magazine Alpinismus of Munich Germany in 1966 as “The Most Beautiful Mountain in the World”
Climbing Details:
Route: French Direct / West Face
Duration: 6 Days / 5 Nights
Technical difficulty: Difficult / Level of effort: Demanding
Activity: Climbing Nature / Adventure
Season: May / September (Day 12 ° C to 23 ° C) (Night 0 ° C to -15 ° C)
Altitude Between: 3,100 / 5,947 m.
Destination: Huaraz Peru, Cordillera blanca
Number of participants in group: 6 minimum / 8 maximum
Program:
Day 1 Huaraz (3,100 m) / Cashapampa / Ichiccocha (3,900 m)
Departure: 07:00 AM we will head north of the City of Huaraz with our transport to Caraz visiting its typical villages of the Huaylas alley and then we will arrive at the town of Cashapampa (2,900 m) where the Arrieros and donkeys wait for us transfer of food and materials to Ichiccocha. (L, D)
Elevation: + 1,000 m (duration 3/4 hours approx.)
Day 2 Ichicocha / Arhuaycoha Base Camp (4,350 m)
This day we will continue with our trek to the base camp, passing through the beautiful lagoons Ichiccocha and Atuncocha, appreciating some peaks that surround us such as artezonraju, taulliraju, quitaraju and then we will arrive at the base camp. (B, L, D)
Elevation: + 450 m (duration 4/5 hours approx.)
Day 3 Base Camp / Camp 1 (5,450 m)
We will begin our ascent to the height field, along a very marked path with landmarks within the forest of quenuales and ichu and we will cross a very loose moraine and thus reach the glacier, we will pass through a gutter and then we will descend to the height camp. (B, L, D)
Elevation: + 1,100 m (duration 5/6 hours approx.)
Day 4 Camp 1 / Summit (5,947 m) / Camp 1
We will wake up very early in the morning to carry out almost all the ascent at night and thus take advantage of the best snow conditions, the temperature reaches from -15 º C to -20º C and a cold air, with a medium difficulty and an inclination of 65º to 70 ° and a hard ice wall of 300 meters. From the rimaya to the summit 5,947 m from the summit we will appreciate an impressive panorama of almost the entire white mountain range, after taking some pictures we will descend with rappels following our same footprints to camp 1 (B, L, D)
Elevation: + 497 m / – 497 m (duration 08/10 hours approx. Up and down)
Day 5 Camp 1 / Base Camp
We will return along the same ascent route to the base camp by breaking some cracks and crossing the moraine to the base camp. (B, L, D)
Day 6 Base Camp / Cashapampa / Huaraz Hotel
After breakfast, we will begin to collect the camp to return with the donkeys to Cashapampa where our minivan awaits us for our transfer to Huaraz. (B, L)
What includes?
# Mountain Guide (UIAGM)
# Cook (1), Porters (2), Donkey Drive (2)
# Private tourist transport to the starting point for walking
# Food during the expedition (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner)
Breakfast: Tea, coffee, milk, serials, bread, cheese, butter, jam, cake, fruit salad, etc.
Snack: Fresh fruit, chocolate, biscuit, frugues and candies.
Lunch: Vegetable salad, pasta, tuna, huancaína potato, chicken chili pepper, chicken spatter, ham.
Tea Time: Coffee, infusions, cookies, fried huantan, popcorn, etc.
Dinner: variety of soups, quinoa, chaufa rice, rolled chicken, fried trout, pasta, sauteed loin.
# Optional vegetarian food
# Last day (typical food of the Pachamanca Andes)
# Camping equipment (sleeping tent 2 people, dining tent, kitchen and bathroom tent)
# Logistic Kitchen Equipment (kitchen utensils, pots, plates, cutlery, chairs, tables, gas)
# Hot water in the morning to wash your hands and face every day
# Boiled water for your bottle every day
# Donkeys for the transport of luggage and food (6 Kilos per person for the donkey)
# Emergency Horse (1) in case of evacuation
# First aid kit
# Communication radio
# Personalized assistance
What does not include?
# Personal clothing for high mountains
# High mountain personal technical equipment (boots, ice axes, crampons, harness, helmet, etc.)
# Extra food and drinks in the cities
# Entrance tickets (Huascaran National Park S / 150.00 soles per person)
# Travel / Accident Insurance
# Sleeping bag
# Tips (driver, guide, cook, porter, carrier)
What do i need to bring?
# Wear appropriate clothing for the day (heat) and for the night (cold), sunscreen, sunglasses, repellent, bathing clothes, personal hygiene kit, walking boots, camera, waterproof jacket, water bottle, sleeping bag, small backpack, front (flashlight-light)
# Luggage (10 Kilos per person) for donkeys
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