Huascaran South Mountain
Climbing Details:
Altitude Range: 3,030 / 6,768 m
Duration: 7 Days / 6 Nights
Route: Normal Gorge
Difficulty: Medium / Difficult
Season: May / September
Start: Musho
Program:
Day 1 Huaraz / Musho / Huascaran Base Camp (4,200 m)
We will travel by private minivan from Huaraz to Musho (3,030 m), the starting point, where the muleteers and donkeys will be waiting to transport the equipment and materials to base camp. (A, D)
Altitude gain: +1,170 m (duration approximately 3-4 hours)
Day 2 Base Camp / Morena Camp (4,850 m)
After breakfast, we will begin climbing rock sections and paths with the support of porters to the moraine camp. (B, L, D)
Elevation: +650 m (duration approx. 3 hours)
Day 3 Morena Camp / Camp 1 (5,400 m)
In the morning, we will continue to the glacier and ascend over the glacier to Camp 1 (B, L, D)
Elevation: +550 m (duration approx. 3 hours)
Day 4 Camp 1 / Camp 2 (6,000 m)
Very early, we will pass the seracs (avalanche zone), an always tricky part of this route. Then, we will reach Camp 2, or the col. We will rest very early for the next day’s ascent to the South Summit. (B, L, D)
Altitude gain: +600 m (duration approximately 5/6 hours)
Day 5 Camp 2 / Summit (6,768 m) / Camp 2
We will wake up very early to take advantage of the best snow conditions. We will begin ascending via the normal route with an incline of 50º to 65º, crossing small walls and crevasses to the South Summit (6,768 m). After taking photos, we will return via the same route to Camp 2. (B, L, D)
Altitude gain: +768 m / -768 m (duration approximately 14/16 hours to ascend and descend)
Day 6 Camp 2 / Base Camp
We descend very early to base camp, taking care to watch out for the seracs overhead during the first part of the descent. (B, L, D)
Altitude gain: – 1,800 m (descent time: approximately 7/8 hours)
Day 7 Base Camp / Mancos / Huaraz
We will return to Musho with the donkeys, where the minivan will be waiting for the transfer to Huaraz. (B, L)
What’s included?
 Mountain Guide (UIAGM) (1)
 Cook (1), Porters (2), Muleteers (1)
 Private transportation to the starting point for the trek
 Meals during the expedition (Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner)
 Breakfast: Tea, coffee, milk, snacks, bread, cheese, butter, jam, pancakes, fruit salad, etc.
 Snacks: Fresh fruit, chocolate, cookies, candies, and candy.
 Lunch: Vegetable salad, pasta, tuna, HuancaÃna potatoes, ajà de gallina, chicken salpicón, ham.
 Tea Time: Coffee, herbal teas, cookies, fried guacamole, popcorn, etc.
 Dinner: A variety of soups, quinoa, chaufa rice, rolled chicken, fried trout, pasta, and lomo saltado.
 Optional vegetarian meal
 Camping equipment (2-person sleeping tent, dining tent, kitchen and bathroom tent)
 Kitchen logistics equipment (cooking utensils, pots, plates, cutlery, chairs, tables, gas)
 Hot water in the mornings for washing hands and face every day
 Boiled water for your bottle every day
 Donkeys for transporting luggage and food (10 kilos per person for the donkey)
 Emergency horse (1) in case of evacuation
 First aid kit
 Satellite communication
 Personalized assistance
What’s not included?
 Personal clothing for high mountains
 Personal technical equipment for high mountains (boots, ice axes, crampons, harness, helmet, etc.)
 Extra food and drinks in cities
 Entrance tickets (Huascaran National Park S/. 150.00 per person)
 Travel/Accident Insurance
 Sleeping bag (0°C – 20°C)
 Tips
What Do I Need to Bring?
 Bring appropriate clothing for day (hot weather) and night (cold weather), sunscreen, sunglasses, insect repellent, swimwear, personal hygiene kit, hiking boots, camera, rain jacket, water bottle, sleeping bag, small backpack, headlamp (flashlight)
 10 kilos of luggage per person for the donkeys