Nevado Alpamayo (in Quechua it means allpa mayu) is a mountain located in the Andes mountain range located in the northern part of the western branch of the Cordillera Blanca, within the Huascarán National Park in Peru. It reaches an altitude of 5,947 m. It was proclaimed by the Alpinismus magazine of Munich Germany in 1966 as “The Most Beautiful Mountain in the World”
Climbing Details:
Route: Direct French / West Face
Duration: 6 Days / 5 Nights
Technical Difficulty: Difficult / Level of Effort: Demanding
Activity: Nature / Adventure Climbing
Season: May / September (Day 12°C to 23°C) (Night 0°C to -15°C)
Altitude Between: 3,100 / 5,947 m.
Destination: Huaraz Peru, Cordillera Blanca
Number of participants in group: 6 minimum / 8 maximum
Program:
Day 1 Huaraz (3,100 m) / Cashapampa / Ichiccocha (3,900 m)
Departure: 07:00 AM we will head north of the city of Huaraz with our transportation to Caraz visiting its typical villages of the Callejón de Huaylas and then we will arrive at the town of Cashapampa (2,900 m) where the Arrieros and donkeys await us for our transfer of food and materials to Ichiccocha. (A, D)
Elevation: + 1,000 m (duration approx. 3/4 hours)
Day 2 Ichicocha / Arhuaycoha Base Camp (4,350 m)
This day we will continue our trek to base camp, passing by the beautiful Ichiccocha and Atuncocha lagoons, appreciating some peaks that surround us such as Artezonraju, Taulliraju, Quitaraju and then we will reach base camp. (B, L, D)
Elevation: + 450 m (duration approx. 4/5 hours)
Day 3 Base Camp / Camp 1 (5,450 m)
We will begin our ascent to the high camp, along a very marked path with milestones within the quenuales and ichu forest and we will cross a very loose moraine and thus reach the glacier, we will pass through a gully and then we will descend to the high camp. (D, A, C)
Elevation: + 1,100 m (duration approx. 5/6 hours)
Day 4 Camp 1 / Summit (5,947 m) / Camp 1
We will get up very early to do almost the entire ascent at night and thus take advantage of the best snow conditions, the temperature reaches -15º C to -20º C and a cold air, with a medium difficulty and an inclination of 65º to 70° and a hard ice wall of 300 meters. From the rimaye to the summit 5,947 m from the summit we will appreciate an impressive panorama of almost the entire Cordillera Blanca, after taking some photos we will descend with rappels following our same tracks to camp 1 (B, L, D)
Elevation: + 497 m / – 497 m (duration 08/10 hours approx. to go up and down)
Day 5 Camp 1 / Base Camp
We will return by the same ascent route to base camp, avoiding some cracks and crossing the moraine to base camp. (B, L, D)
Day 6 Base Camp / Cashapampa / Huaraz Hotel
After breakfast, we will begin to pack up camp to return with the donkeys to Cashapampa where our minivan awaits us for our transfer to Huaraz. (B, L)
What is included?
• Mountain Guide (UIAGM)
• Cook (1), Porters (2)
• Private tourist transport to the starting point for walking
• Food during the expedition (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner)
Breakfast: Tea, coffee, milk, snacks, bread, cheese, butter, jam, bread cake, fruit salad, etc.
Snack: Fresh fruit, chocolate, cookies, fruit and candy.
Lunch: Vegetable salad, pasta, tuna, huancaína potatoes, chicken chili, chicken salad, ham.
Tea Time: Coffee, infusions, cookies, fried huantan, popcorn, etc.
Dinner: variety of soups, quinoa, fried rice, rolled chicken, fried trout, pasta, lomo saltado.
• Optional vegetarian meal
• Last day (typical Andean food Pachamanca)
• Camping equipment (sleeping tent for 2 people, dining tent, kitchen tent and bathroom)
• Kitchen logistics equipment (kitchen utensils, pots, plates, cutlery, chairs, tables, gas)
• Hot water in the mornings to wash your hands and face
• Boiled water for your bottle every day
• Donkeys to transport luggage and food (5 kilos per person for porters)
• Emergency horse (1) in case of evacuation
• First aid kit
• Communication radio
• Personalized assistance
What is not included?
• Personal clothing for high mountains
• Personal technical equipment for high mountains (boots, ice axes, crampons, harness, helmet, etc.)
• Extra food and drinks in the cities
• Entrance tickets (Huascaran National Park S/ 150.00 per person)
• Travel/Accident Insurance
• Sleeping bag
• Tips (driver, guide, cook, porter, muleteer)
What do I need to bring?
• Bring appropriate clothing for the day (hot) and for the night (cold), sunscreen, sunglasses, repellent, swimwear, personal hygiene kit, hiking boots, camera, waterproof jacket, water bottle, sleeping bag, small backpack, headlamp (flashlight)
• Luggage (5 kilos per person) for the porters